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Whenever curating a roll of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the family member, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this culinary honour.